What Fish Eats Hair Algae Your Ultimate Guide
- fabianbehague
- 2 days ago
- 17 min read
So, you're asking what fish eats hair algae? I get this question a lot. Newcomers often hope there's one magic bullet—a single fish that will solve all their problems. The truth is, while certain fish like the Siamese Algae Eater in freshwater or the Lawnmower Blenny in saltwater are famous for the job, the real secret is building a dedicated "cleanup crew." It's about assembling a team of fish and invertebrates that are perfectly suited to your specific tank.
Your Quick Guide To Hair Algae Eaters

When your aquarium starts looking less like a pristine slice of nature and more like a neglected lawn, it's time to bring in the specialists. Don't just think of these critters as pets; they're your diligent, live-in gardeners. Each one has a particular talent for tackling that green, stringy menace we all know as hair algae. Some are precision grazers that pick at individual strands, while others are more like bulldozers, clearing patches in bulk.
The trick is to recruit the right crew for your unique setup. The team you'd pick for a small, delicate planted tank is completely different from what you'd need for a large tank full of aggressive cichlids or a sensitive reef aquarium. Making the wrong choice can cause more headaches than it solves—you might end up with an algae eater that outgrows its home, or worse, one that decides your expensive fish food is tastier than the algae you hired it to eat.
Finding The Right Algae Eater For Your Tank
To help you make a smart decision without endless research, it helps to see the top contenders side-by-side. Your goal is to find an animal that not only devours hair algae but also fits right into your existing aquatic community without causing trouble. Factors like tank size, temperament, and whether you run a freshwater or saltwater system are just as crucial as the animal's appetite.
An effective cleanup crew doesn’t just solve an algae problem; it becomes an integral part of a balanced ecosystem. The best algae eaters work tirelessly in the background, preventing outbreaks before they start and reducing your manual maintenance workload.
To give you a head start, I've put together a quick comparison of some of the most reliable and popular choices for fighting hair algae. This table gives you a snapshot of what they need, how well they work, and where they fit best. Think of it as your cheat sheet for assembling the perfect cleanup crew.
Top 5 Hair Algae Eaters At A Glance
Algae Eater | Aquarium Type | Minimum Tank Size | Effectiveness | Reef Safe? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Amano Shrimp | Freshwater | 10 Gallons | High (in groups) | N/A |
Siamese Algae Eater | Freshwater | 30 Gallons | Very High | N/A |
Florida Flagfish | Freshwater | 20 Gallons | High | N/A |
Lawnmower Blenny | Saltwater | 30 Gallons | Very High | Yes |
Emerald Crab | Saltwater | 10 Gallons | High | With Caution |
By understanding what each of these specialists brings to the table, you can select the right one for the job and get your tank back to looking its best.
Understanding The Real Cause of Hair Algae
Before you even start looking for a fish that eats hair algae, we need to talk about why it’s growing in the first place. Think of it this way: adding an algae eater to a tank overrun with algae is like constantly mowing a lawn you’re over-fertilizing and over-watering. The mower helps, but it doesn't stop the grass from growing like crazy.
Hair algae isn't the real problem. It’s a symptom—a big, green, stringy signal that something is out of balance in your aquarium's ecosystem.
When you see those filaments start to take over, your tank is telling you it has too many nutrients. The water in your aquarium is like garden soil. If you dump a ton of fertilizer on it, you’re going to get weeds. In a reef tank, that "fertilizer" is primarily nitrates and phosphates.
These compounds come from the usual suspects: fish waste, uneaten food, and anything organic that breaks down. If your corals and other beneficial organisms can't use them up fast enough, they become the perfect fuel for a hair algae explosion. High nutrients are basically an open invitation for algae to move in and set up shop.
The Perfect Storm for an Algae Takeover
Excess nutrients are the fuel, but two other ingredients create the perfect storm for hair algae: lighting and water flow. Like any plant, algae needs light to photosynthesize. If your lights are too strong or you're leaving them on for more than 8-10 hours a day, you're just giving the algae an advantage. It's like leaving a greenhouse door open 24/7 with the lights on full blast.
Poor water circulation is the final piece of this ugly puzzle. Weak flow creates "dead spots" where water just sits. Nutrients settle in these areas, and any floating algae spores can easily land and anchor themselves without getting blown away. It’s no coincidence that you often see hair algae starting in the quiet corners or behind your rockwork before it spreads everywhere else.
Tackling the root cause is always more effective than just treating the symptoms. When you get your nutrients, lighting, and flow in balance, you create an environment where algae simply can't get a foothold. This makes your cleanup crew's job a whole lot easier.
Taking Back Control of Your Nutrients
The secret to long-term success isn't a magic bullet; it's about proactively managing your nutrients. By cutting off the algae's fuel source, you starve it out before it becomes an eyesore.
Here are the fundamentals for getting your nutrients under control:
Feed Mindfully: Only give your fish what they can eat in a minute or two. Overfeeding is easily the #1 cause of high nutrients in most tanks.
Do Your Water Changes: Regularly changing your water—say, 20% weekly—is the most straightforward way to physically pull dissolved nitrates and phosphates out of the tank.
Optimize Your Filtration: Make sure your filter is right for your tank size and is cleaned regularly. You can also run chemical media like GFO (granular ferric oxide) to directly soak up phosphates from the water.
Getting a handle on these basics is the first step in shifting your tank's ecosystem back into balance. If you're specifically fighting high nitrates in a saltwater tank, our guide on how to reduce nitrates in a saltwater aquarium goes into much more detail. Mastering these principles will turn you from a frustrated algae-scraper into a true ecosystem manager, paving the way for a clean, stable, and beautiful reef.
Top Saltwater Fish For Hair Algae Control

When you're dealing with a hair algae outbreak, bringing in a fish isn't just about finding something that grazes—it's about hiring a specialist for your reef's delicate ecosystem. The right fish will be a tireless worker, keeping your live rock looking pristine. But the wrong choice can stir up trouble, nipping at corals or bullying its tank mates.
Think of it like hiring a live-in landscaper. You need one with the right skills, but also the right personality for the job.
This means you have to look beyond a simple "eats hair algae" label. You need to consider how it eats, how big it'll get, and its overall temperament. A fish that's a champion in a 150-gallon tank could be a total disaster in a 50-gallon setup. Let's break down the top contenders so you can find a fish that will not only solve your problem but become a valuable, long-term member of your aquatic community.
The Lawnmower Blenny: A Reef Safe Powerhouse
If there’s a poster child for hair algae control, it’s the Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus). True to its name, this fish methodically mows down filamentous algae, using its specialized mouth to scrape it clean off rock surfaces. They’re fantastic for tanks 30 gallons and up and have a comical, inquisitive personality that makes them a reefer favorite.
The Lawnmower Blenny’s diet is almost exclusively the algae and biofilm growing on your rocks, making it a perfect natural solution. They're widely considered reef-safe and typically leave corals and inverts alone. But their dedication can be a double-edged sword. In a tank that's too clean, they can actually starve. You must have enough natural algae growth to sustain them or be ready to supplement their diet with dried seaweed (nori) offered on a veggie clip.
One of the most widely recognized and utilized fish for controlling hair algae in marine aquariums is the lawnmower blenny (Salarias fasciatus). In a 2015 survey of 1,200 reef aquarium hobbyists, 68% reported that lawnmower blennies were effective at reducing hair algae within the first month of introduction. However, the same survey also found that 23% of respondents experienced aggression from their blennies toward smaller tankmates, highlighting the importance of careful tank selection.
Tangs: The Surgical Algae Grazers
When you have a larger tank, certain Tangs are absolute algae-eating machines. They constantly patrol the reef, using their scalpel-like teeth to snip algae from every nook and cranny. But not all Tangs are created equal when it comes to hair algae, and they all come with a non-negotiable requirement for space.
For a comprehensive look at your options, check out our complete guide to saltwater aquarium algae eating fish.
Here are two of the best Tangs for the job:
Kole Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus): This is a true specialist. Its bristle-like teeth are perfectly designed for scraping film and detritus, which includes young, tender hair algae. They are less aggressive than many other Tangs and are a solid choice for tanks around 75 gallons and up.
Tomini Tang (Ctenochaetus tominiensis): As a smaller member of the Bristletooth Tang family, the Tomini is an excellent pick for mid-sized reefs starting at 70 gallons. It’s a relentless grazer and generally more peaceful than its cousins, making it a great community fish.
While they are incredibly effective, Tangs are a big commitment. They demand large, mature tanks with plenty of swimming room and established rockwork to graze on. Dropping a Tang into a small tank is a recipe for stress, aggression, and poor health.
Comparing Top Saltwater Hair Algae Eaters
Choosing the right fish is all about matching its needs to your tank's environment. This table breaks down the key differences between our top contenders to help you make an informed decision.
Fish Species | Primary Diet | Min. Tank Size (Gallons) | Temperament | Notes on Effectiveness |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Lawnmower Blenny | Film & Hair Algae, Biofilm | 30 | Peaceful but can be territorial | Excellent for consistent grazing on rockwork. Can starve in overly clean tanks. |
Kole Tang | Film Algae, Detritus, Young Hair Algae | 75 | Semi-aggressive, peaceful for a tang | A methodical grazer with specialized teeth. Less likely to eat coarse, mature algae. |
Tomini Tang | Film Algae, Detritus, Young Hair Algae | 70 | Peaceful to semi-aggressive | A relentless worker and one of the smaller, more manageable tangs for hair algae. |
One Spot Foxface | Filamentous Algae, Some Macroalgae | 75 | Peaceful but has venomous spines | Great for tackling tougher algae types that others might ignore. Very reliable. |
Remember, this is just a starting point. Every fish has its own personality, and success always depends on providing the right environment for it to thrive.
One Spot Foxface: A Unique Alternative
Often overlooked in the algae-eater discussion, the One Spot Foxface (Siganus unimaculatus) is a fantastic and generally peaceful candidate for controlling hair algae. These fish are known to browse on various types of nuisance algae that other fish might pass over, including some of the tougher filamentous strains.
They are relatively docile, but you have to respect their venomous dorsal spines—always be cautious when your hands are in the tank. A Foxface is a great addition for tanks 75 gallons or larger and will typically leave corals and other fish alone, making it a dependable reef citizen. Plus, they add a stunning splash of yellow, combining serious utility with beauty.
Ultimately, picking the right fish is a critical part of an integrated algae management plan. By matching the fish's needs to your tank's size and its inhabitants' personalities, you'll gain a beautiful, hardworking ally in the quest for a pristine reef.
Your Freshwater Cleanup Crew For Hair Algae

While reef tanks have their own cast of algae-eating characters, the freshwater world has an equally impressive roster. When you're trying to figure out what fish eats hair algae in a planted tank, you need a specialist—something that will mow down the fuzzy green stuff without shredding your delicate plants. These grazers are the true unsung heroes of freshwater aquascaping, working tirelessly to keep your green carpets looking sharp.
The real key is picking the right tool for the job. A tiny shrimp might be the perfect solution for a nano tank, but you'll need a bigger, more active fish for a 55-gallon community setup. Let's dive into the A-team of freshwater algae control and find the perfect match for your aquarium.
The True Siamese Algae Eater: An Unrivaled Champion
When it comes to devouring filamentous algae, the true Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus) is a legend for good reason. These active, torpedo-shaped fish are one of the very few species that will go after not just hair algae, but also the dreaded Black Beard Algae (BBA). They are a fantastic choice for tanks 30 gallons and up.
But here’s the catch: you have to get the right one. Many big-box pet stores are notorious for mislabeling similar-looking fish as SAEs. The Chinese Algae Eater, a common imposter, grows much larger, gets aggressive with age, and completely loses its appetite for algae as it matures.
A true Siamese Algae Eater has two tell-tale signs: a single, bold black stripe that runs from its nose all the way through its tail fin, and one pair of tiny barbels (whiskers). If that stripe stops before the tail, you’ve got an imposter that won't do the job.
These guys are most effective when they're young and hungry. As they get older, they can get a bit lazy and develop a taste for fish flakes. To keep them on task, feed your tank sparingly to encourage their natural grazing instincts.
Amano Shrimp: The Tireless Cleanup Crew
For smaller tanks, or as a support crew for larger fish, Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata) are simply in a class of their own. They were made famous by the legendary aquascaper Takashi Amano, who knew just how voracious these little shrimp are. They are relentless, meticulously picking apart hair algae strand by strand, often working 24/7.
Their small size is both their greatest strength and a potential weakness. It allows them to clean tiny crevices that no fish could ever reach, but it also means you need a team. A couple of shrimp won't make a dent; you need a proper "squad" of at least six or more per 10 gallons to see real results.
Totally Community Safe: Amanos are peaceful and won't bother even the smallest, most timid fish.
Plant Friendly: They will never harm your delicate aquatic plants, no matter how fragile.
Dietary Needs: In a very clean tank, their diet should be supplemented with sinking pellets to make sure they're getting all the nutrients they need to thrive.
Just remember, Amano Shrimp are vulnerable. Never house them with large, predatory fish like cichlids or bigger gouramis, which will view them as a very expensive snack.
Florida Flagfish: The Feisty Alternative
Often flying under the radar, the Florida Flagfish (Jordanella floridae) is a North American native that acts like a powerhouse against hair algae. It has a mouth shape that’s perfectly designed for nipping and tearing apart long, filamentous strands. This makes it an excellent pick for community tanks of 20 gallons or more where hair algae is the main problem.
But while they're incredibly effective, Flagfish come with a bit of an attitude. They can be semi-aggressive and are known fin-nippers, especially towards slow-moving fish with long fins, like guppies or bettas. They do best with faster tank mates, like tetras or certain barbs, that can hold their own.
Their feisty personality means they aren't a plug-and-play solution for every tank. But in the right setup, a single pair can keep a medium-sized planted tank looking spotless. If you can accommodate their temperament, their algae-eating prowess is tough to beat.
Building Your Integrated Algae Control Plan
Dropping in a new algae-eating fish is one of the most satisfying moves in this hobby, but it's just one piece of the puzzle. It's not a magic bullet.
Think of it this way: your new fish is like a diligent groundskeeper hired to maintain a beautiful park. If that park is constantly being buried in trash (excess nutrients) and scorched by too much sun (excess light), one person simply can’t keep up. To truly beat hair algae for good, you need an integrated battle plan that tackles the problem at its source.
This is all about shifting your mindset from being reactive—always fighting the latest outbreak—to being proactive. You’re not just treating the symptom; you're managing the entire ecosystem. By creating an environment where algae struggles to even get a foothold, your cleanup crew becomes a maintenance team, not an emergency response unit.
Step One: Manual Removal and Nutrient Export
Before your new fish even hits the water, you've got to give it a fighting chance. The first step is getting in there and ripping out as much of that green stringy mess as you can by hand.
Grab an old toothbrush or a scraper and start twirling out those long filaments like you’re making spaghetti. This gives you an immediate visual win and, more importantly, pulls a massive amount of trapped nutrients right out of the system.
Right after you’ve pulled out the bulk of it, perform a significant water change—think 25-40%. This serves two critical purposes: it sucks out all the tiny algae fragments and spores you just stirred up, and it dilutes the dissolved nitrates and phosphates that are fueling the algae in the first place. This one-two punch resets the battlefield and makes it way easier for your tank's natural balance to take over.
Step Two: Optimizing Your Tank Environment
With the worst of the algae gone, the next move is to make your aquarium a terrible place for it to grow back. This means getting your lighting and water flow dialed in to favor your corals and shut out the nuisance algae.
Lighting Control: Algae absolutely loves intense, long-lasting light. Start by cutting your lighting schedule back to no more than 8 hours per day. If your lights are dimmable, dialing back the intensity by just 10-20% can make a huge difference without bothering most corals.
Circulation Improvement: Hair algae thrives in dead spots—those quiet corners where water flow is weak and nutrients settle. Add or reposition your powerheads to eliminate these stagnant zones. You want to see gentle but consistent water movement across every piece of rock and sand. Stronger, more chaotic flow makes it incredibly difficult for algae spores to latch on and start growing.
An effective algae control strategy is a symphony, not a solo. It combines the biological grazing of fish and invertebrates with the environmental control of nutrient export, proper lighting, and robust water flow. When all these elements work in harmony, algae simply doesn't stand a chance.
The Power of a Diverse Cleanup Crew
While this guide is focused on finding the best fish to eat hair algae, relying on a single species is rarely the long-term answer. The most effective cleanup crews are diverse teams where every member has a specific job.
Tangs, for example, are absolute powerhouses. A 2014 study found that a single Kole Tang can mow down up to 15 grams of hair algae every day, reducing visible algae by 60-80% in just eight weeks. A separate survey of 1,500 hobbyists confirmed this, with 72% naming tangs as highly effective algae grazers.
This is exactly why combining a strong fish grazer with a team of invertebrates works so well. Snails get the glass and tight crevices, hermit crabs tackle the tougher bits, and shrimp can meticulously pick at delicate areas around corals. To get more ideas, check out our complete guide on reef aquarium algae control tips at home. By building this multi-layered defense, you create a system that is constantly being polished from every angle, setting you up for long-term success and a pristine aquarium.
Your Hair Algae Questions Answered

Even when you have a solid plan, questions are bound to pop up in the middle of a war with hair algae. You might start second-guessing your choices or wonder what to do when things don't go exactly as you hoped.
Don't worry, that's completely normal. Every aquarium is its own little world, and sometimes you just have to troubleshoot on the fly. Let's walk through some of the most common questions and myths to help you feel confident in your strategy and get that crystal-clear tank you're aiming for.
Will One Fish Solve a Severe Hair Algae Problem?
It's a tempting thought, isn't it? But dropping in a single fish is rarely a magic bullet for a full-blown algae infestation. It’s better to think of your new algae eater as a diligent gardener, not an industrial excavator. They are fantastic for managing new growth and tidying up existing patches, but they can't fix the root issues that caused the bloom in the first place.
When you're dealing with a serious problem, you have to pair their hard work with a broader strategy. Your fish is a crucial part of the cleanup crew, but you’re the manager. That means you need to take an active role to set them up for success.
A winning game plan looks something like this:
Manual Removal: Get in there and physically pull out as much of the algae as you can before introducing your new fish.
Nutrient Reduction: Knock down the dissolved nitrates and phosphates fueling the algae with some good old-fashioned water changes.
Environmental Control: Tweak your lighting schedule and boost the water flow to make the tank a less friendly place for algae to grow.
It's only by tackling these core issues that your algae-eating fish can actually keep up and, eventually, get ahead of any new growth.
Are Any Invertebrates Better Than Fish for Hair Algae?
In some situations, absolutely. While the first question most people ask is what fish eats hair algae, invertebrates are often the unsung heroes of algae control. Critters like Amano Shrimp in freshwater tanks or a good mix of snails in saltwater systems can be absolute powerhouses.
Their biggest advantage? They can get into all the little nooks and crannies that fish just can't reach. They meticulously clean the tight spots between rocks and around coral bases—exactly where algae often gets a foothold.
The most powerful strategy is almost always a combination of both fish and invertebrates. This creates a multi-pronged attack on algae, with different specialists cleaning different surfaces and tackling various algae types, from soft films to tougher filaments.
For instance, in a reef tank, Trochus snails are brilliant at cleaning glass and rock surfaces. Meanwhile, Emerald Crabs are famous for their willingness to eat tougher stuff, including bubble algae, that many fish won't touch. In a freshwater planted tank, Amano Shrimp work tirelessly on delicate plants without causing any harm. Building a diverse crew ensures no surface goes uncleaned.
What If My Algae Eater Stops Eating Algae?
This is a really common and frustrating problem, but there's usually a pretty simple explanation. If your once-voracious grazer is suddenly slacking off, it's time to do a little detective work. A few likely culprits are usually to blame.
First off, you might be overfeeding the tank. Your algae eater is an opportunist. If easy, delicious, high-protein food like flakes or pellets is always floating around, why would it work hard grazing on tough algae? It's a no-brainer. Try cutting back on how much you feed the whole tank for a few days to get them back to foraging.
Second, check for social stress. A new, territorial tank mate could be bullying your algae eater, making it hide instead of graze. Just watch your tank's social dynamics for a while to make sure everyone is getting along.
Finally, some species, like the Lawnmower Blenny, can become victims of their own success. They might clean a tank so thoroughly that they literally run out of their natural food. If your aquarium is spotless, you might need to supplement their diet with algae wafers or dried seaweed (nori) to keep them healthy and ready for the next battle.
Should I Use Chemical Algae Removers?
I get it. Chemical algaecides seem like a tempting quick fix, but they should always be your absolute last resort. While they can certainly kill algae fast, they come with big risks and do nothing to solve the actual problem.
These chemicals can be harmful, and sometimes fatal, to your tank's more sensitive residents like invertebrates, corals, and certain types of fish and plants. They're a blunt instrument in a delicate ecosystem. Even worse, they don't fix the root cause of the algae.
Here's the dangerous cycle that chemical removers can kick off:
You add the chemical, and the algae dies.
The dead algae immediately starts to decompose.
This decomposition releases all the trapped nutrients (nitrates and phosphates) right back into the water.
This sudden nutrient spike then fuels an even worse algae bloom a few weeks down the road.
It is always better to balance your aquarium naturally through consistent nutrient control, diligent manual removal, and a well-chosen biological cleanup crew. Using chemicals often trades long-term tank stability for a very short-term win. Patience and a holistic approach will always give you better, more permanent results.
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